How to Care for Leather Furnishings
Proper cleaning and moisturizing leads to long life.
By Vince Signorelli
Few experiences are as intoxicating to your building's visitors as
the look, smell and feel of a beautifully crafted piece of leather-upholstered
furniture or other interior furnishing covered with leather. For any
facility, it is an investment with obvious aesthetic benefit. Proper
care of the leather will help it retain its beauty and extend its
life, protect that investment and demonstrate your staff's capability
and expertise.
Leather is one of the few materials, if not the only one, used
on furniture and in building interiors that was once actually a
living animal. Generally, the cowhides used to fabricate leather
for interiors are by-products of the meat processing industry.
If the hides were simply tossed aside and nature was allowed to
take its course, armies of bacteria, molds and fungi would go on
the attack and begin nature's recycling process. Put more bluntly,
the hides would simply rot.
But these hides are not tossed aside; they are tanned in large
tumbling drums. In the tanning process, solutions of organic material
and mineral salts called tanning liquors are applied to prevent
the decomposition of the hides.
A solution called "fat liquor" is also included as a
part of the tumbling process to help make the hides softer and more
pliable when they are removed from the drums. Finally, the hides
are stained and sent to the company which will fabricate the components
of a leather furnishing.
Cleaning Leather
New leather hides are supple yet firm, stuffed with oils and moderately
acidic. The goal in caring for leather is to keep it that way, even
through years of use.
According to most leather experts, the best way to accomplish that
is to treat it similar to our skin: keep it clean and moisturize
it.
Leather should be cleaned regularly by working up a lather with
a mild soap and as little water as possible. The best soap will
be non-alkaline, with a low pH. Some better cleaners contain glycerine,
an ingredient which attracts moisture from the air and helps keep
the leather softer.
When cleaning, your employees should work up a lather with a sponge
and rinse often. They should change the water often to avoid putting
dirt back into the leather.
Use a soft toothbrush to reach into stitching, tooling and other
crevices. Strong cleaners and detergents should not be used on leather,
except to spot-clean bad stains before going over the entire leather
surface using your mild leather cleaner.
After the leather is clean, your staff should wipe away all soap
with a clean, damp sponge, especially in and around small crevices
and stitching. Allow the leather to dry naturally, never in direct
sunlight.
Conditioning Leather
After the leather is clean and dry, it should be moisturized to
replenish any oils which were lost over time or removed during the
cleaning process. The leather should also be conditioned between
regular cleanings, depending upon the building's interior climate
and the degree of wear the surface receives.
In general, leather conditioning products are best when they are
light, spread easily, absorb into the surface, will not rub off
on clothing, will not permanently darken the leather's color and
are similar to the oils used by curriers to manufacture the leather.
To condition leather, your staff should carefully spread a thin
coating of the conditioning product over the entire surface. Instruct
them to use a clean, dry sponge, and not the same sponges that were
just used for cleaning and removing dirt and soap.
Again, the leather should be allowed to dry naturally. If time
permits, it may be lightly buffed afterwards to a nice matte finish.
Some Tough Problems
Dirt and moisture create an ideal breeding ground for bacteria
and mold -- the culprits that eat away at the stitching that holds
a leather surface together.
If you notice that moisture and mold are getting the upper hand,
it is important to remove them completely before applying leather
moisturizers. Otherwise, a conditioner can lock these destructive
organisms more deeply into the leather and stitching where they
can continue doing damage.
Some products contain ingredients especially designed to kill mold
and mildew. Otherwise, a very mild solution of bleach and water
may do the trick.
Perhaps the only positive aspect of the presence of mold and mildew
is that it indicates an old leather surface still has some life
left in it and hasn't become too stiff and dry. Truly dry leather
begins to look and feel powdery, a sure sign that the end for the
furnishing is near.
Any leather that is not protected from the elements or cleaned
and moisturized regularly can become dry, brittle and, over time,
begin falling apart. If a leather surface's fibers are left too
brittle, stiff and dried out, all the cleaners and conditioners
in the world can't refurbish it.
While cleaning and conditioning leather, your staff should keep
an eye out for cuts, gouges, weakened stitching and places that
may have stretched thin or become dog-eared along their edges. A
stitch in time saves nine. Minor repairs should be made to leather
or stitching as soon as possible, before they quickly turn into
larger, more expensive problems.
Keep the Sun Out
Most agree that sunlight is a leather surface's worst enemy. If
a leather surface must be exposed to sun coming through a window,
it may be helpful to place some type of slipcover or protective
fabric over it.
Because a leather furnishing is made of a natural material, proper
care is especially important. Simple maintenance and care protects
your facility's investment in leather by preserving its appearance,
extending its life and enhancing its natural character and beauty
as it ages. A basic understanding of proper care techniques adds
to your pride in the appearance of leather furnishings, helps the
furnishings retain their value and establishes you and your staff
as cleaning professionals.
Vince Signorelli is president of Tanners Inc., Richmond, VA, a
manufacturer of leather care products.
Copyright © National Trade Publications, Inc.
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